Climate Change Emergency
每年我參加氣候會議時,只要時間可以,都會參加一場由各個宗教團體在氣候會議會場聯合在一起的祈福許願或遊行活動,不同宗教會用不同方式來祈禱,希望能影響更多人,雖然我不是天主教徒或是基督徒,但幾次的活動中,可以感受到不同宗教界的平和與憂心,都會透過各種方法來提醒世人。
一早收到世界基督教協會,看到這個 Climate Change Emergency 氣候變遷緊急的宣言,Emergency 在我們風險管理中很重要,也有應急管理 Emergency Management ,不只是救護車上的 Emergency 而已,我們真的要非常體認重視這問題了。
幾年前我曾訪問過吳偉立神父,大家可以從 Podcast 聽這段聲音
https://open.spotify.com/show/1ryyVpjRt6faqRT1YfsWif…
彭啟明
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Statement on the Climate Change Emergency
25 November 2019
World Council of Churches
EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE
Bossey, Switzerland
20-26 November 2019
Doc. No. 04.3 rev
Statement on the Climate Change Emergency
But the earth will be desolate because of its inhabitants, for the fruit of their doings.
Micah 7:13
Recent extreme weather events of increasing strength and frequency around the world together with further studies conducted by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) have jolted many into belated recognition that the climate crisis is not a distant prospect, but is upon us today.
From Hurricane Maria, Tropical Cyclone Idai, Hurricane Dorian and Typhoon Hagibis which caused loss of lives and left widespread devastation in Puerto Rico, in Mozambique, Zimbabwe and Malawi, in the Bahamas and in Japan respectively, to ongoing bushfires in Australia and California, to unprecedented flooding in Bangladesh and in Venice, and to the very recent landslide following exceptionally heavy rains in Kenya, the impacts on our communities - especially the poorest and most vulnerable among us – and on the bountiful Creation that God has entrusted to human beings as stewards – are now all too tragically real.
The latest IPCC special reports on climate change, land, oceans and cryosphere confirm that climate change has become a top driver of hunger all over the world, and project rising sea levels of up to 1 metre by 2100 due to melting glaciers, water scarcity affecting nearly 2 billion people and more intense sea-level events such as storms and flooding, if warming is not kept at the safer limit of 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels.
Moreover, exceptionally destructive fires and the encroachment of industrial agriculture and mining, have greatly increased concern about runaway deforestation in the largest remaining rainforest ecosystems – the earth’s lungs, the home and heritage of many Indigenous Peoples, and a critical resource in confronting the threat of climate change. Especially in the Amazon, in the Congo Basin, and in West Papua and elsewhere in Indonesia, this resource is, often deliberately, being squandered at a perilous rate.
Children, young people and ordinary citizens have made public demonstration of their outrage at the lack of any adequate response by governments to the gravity of this global crisis, and against the backsliding by some governments. Children have been obliged to mobilize and to raise their voices to demand what adults have failed or refused to deliver – fundamental changes to our economic and social systems in order to preserve God’s Creation and their future.
Indeed, a recent research report shows that governments are currently projected to produce 120% more fossil fuels by 2030 than can be burned if the world is to limit warming to an increase of 1.5°C
In particular, the United States’ formal notification of its intention to withdraw from the Paris Agreement – despite the increasingly disastrous impact of extreme weather events in the US itself – seriously undermines the best hope the international community had secured for a multilateral global response to the climate crisis. This is an abject failure and abdication of global leadership, at precisely the historical moment when such leadership is most needed. It will embolden other backsliding states. It impoverishes and imperils all of us.
The protests against widening inequality in Chile, triggering the move of the 25th Conference of Parties (COP 25) of the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) from Santiago to Madrid, underscore the importance of holding together the goals of sustainability and equity, and ensuring that the costs of transitioning to a carbon neutral economy are not borne by those who already have few resources. In other words, there can be no real transition without socio-economic justice.
The time for debate and disputation of established scientific facts is long over. The time for action is swiftly passing. We will all be held to account for our inaction and our disastrous stewardship of this precious and unique planet. The climate emergency is the result of our ecological sins. It is time for metanoia for all. We must now search our hearts and our most fundamental faith principles for a new ecological transformation, and for divine guidance for our next steps to build resilience in the face of this unprecedented millennial challenge.
The executive committee of the World Council of Churches, meeting in Bossey, Switzerland, on 20-26 November 2019, therefore:
Joins other faith leaders, communities and civil society organizations in declaring a climate emergency, which demands an urgent and unprecedented response by everyone everywhere – locally, nationally and internationally.
Expresses its bitter disappointment at the inadequate and even regressive actions by governments that should be leaders in the response to this emergency, especially inaction to stop fires and deforestation, the destruction of Indigenous Peoples’ ancestral lands and livelihoods, and attacks on ecological defenders; the weak commitments made under the Paris Agreement; and measures that place additional financial burdens on poor communities.
Calls on COP 25, taking place in Madrid on 2 to 13 December 2019, to:
- set the groundwork for committing to more ambitious cuts in greenhouse gas emissions as part of Nationally Determined Contributions with a view to attaining carbon neutrality by 2050 and limiting warming to not more than 1.5°C;
- ramp up commitments by wealthy nations to provide sufficient, predictable and transparent climate finance to low-income nations for adaptation and resilience-building;
- strengthen the Warsaw International Mechanism for Loss and Damage to include finance to support people and communities affected by the impacts of the climate emergency; and
- promote actions to engage and learn from Indigenous Peoples in and beyond the UNFCCC process, protect biodiversity, combat deforestation, encourage agro-ecology and construct circular and redistributive economies.
Invites UN system partners, consistent with the critical research and policy advice emanating from UN sources, to examine and divest from fossil fuel investments in their own banking systems and pension funds.
Calls on member churches, ecumenical partners, other faith communities and all people of good will and moral conscience to find the means whereby we can make a meaningful contribution in our own contexts to averting the most catastrophic consequences of further inaction and negative actions by governments – and may join in confronting this global crisis through concerted advocacy for climate change mitigation and adaptation, zero fossil fuel use and a “just transition”, as well as through local action, everywhere – in our fellowship, our churches, our communities, our families, and as individuals.
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【豬年新景象】時裝業的可持續發展覺醒
時裝或許是當今最好的能夠幫助人類表達自我、獲得愉悅的產業,而如今它卻成為世界上污染最為嚴重和最浪費的產業之一。2018在時裝世界中關於行業可持續性的討論聲可謂此起彼伏,現代傳播集團時裝編輯總監、可持續發展創意機構YehYehYeh創辦人及BoF 500成員葉曉薇稱,「時裝產業再也無法迴避人們對氣候變化、資源短缺、人口壓力等全球緊迫性問題的意識和關心持續加強;時尚圈人也要因為沒有季節、全球化市場、新世代去改變自己的生產模式。」
價值3萬億美元的時裝產業確實成為影響環境的「緊急事件」。根據《聯合國氣候變化框架公約》(UN Framework Convention on Climate Change),時裝業的溫室氣體排放量超過了國際海運和航空業的排放量總和。到了2050年,時裝產業不僅每年產生的碳排放將佔全球總量的1/4,以及逐漸凸顯的困擾全球多數快速時裝(Fast Fashion)和奢侈品品牌的不道德勞動行為,可持續發展已經成為時裝產業無法規避的未來話題。
關於可持續發展,首當其衝的就是皮草產業,2018年底Chanel正式加入由Gucci、Versace、Bottega Veneta、Coach、Stella McCartney、Michael Kors等當下最主流的奢侈品牌陣營,成為國際零皮草聯盟的成員之一,以及全球最大的奢侈時裝電商集團Yoox Net-A-Porter也表示希望在可持續發展和零殘忍時裝方面更進一步,承諾將未來以動物皮草製成的所有產品全部從其網店下架。
另外,「焚燒經濟學」早已成為時裝品牌保持價值的一大秘密所在。H&M早前爆出2013年以來在丹麥焚燒了60噸滯銷衣物,平均每年12噸,引起業界廣泛議論,面對嚴重指控和質疑;奮力維持「奢華和高級」的奢侈品也難辭其咎,Burberry不惜在2017年一年的時間內總共燒毀價值超過2860萬英鎊的滯銷產品。據英國《泰晤士報》報道顯示,在過去五年中,該品牌已經燒掉了9000萬英鎊的產品,並遭股東質疑和環保人士抨擊。環保組織綠色和平(Green peace)的Lu Yen Roloff抨擊道:「儘管價格如此高昂,但Burberry一點也不尊重自己的產品以及它們所消耗的自然資源。」
有分析報告稱,普及的可持續時裝的必要性或許是影響人們去了解的第一步。Global Fashion Agenda的執行顧問及營運總監Caroline Chalmer在「由美至善」可持續時裝論壇上說,可持續是與環境、社會以及道德三方面息息相關的,不只存在於時裝行業的供應鏈,同時包括生產、銷售時裝如何與消費者進行溝通,當然還有消費者如何消費時裝。
2018年,90後及00後對奢侈品市場的整體增長作出貢獻。年輕一代逐漸接受花更多錢購買具有可持續或符合道德的產品趨勢,奢侈品品牌無法否認年輕一代的觀念影響。
彭博新聞社也在專欄文章中指出:「可持續性會成為服裝購買決策時的重點所在,服裝零售商必須在這個問題上隨時做好準備,而不是把對可持續發展的貢獻隱藏在年度報告之中。」時裝機構Thredup的報告就進一步印證了產品的「可持續性」決定顧客的購買行為能否發生,有25%的女性消費者表示將從2019年開始不再購買快速時裝服飾,其中大部分為年輕消費者。
全球消費者的一步步覺醒,奢侈品品牌也在隨時順應這種趨勢,可持續領軍企業開雲集團(Kering)早在16年前就專門設立了可持續發展部門,並承諾在2025年前把環境影響降至40%;為了評估和追蹤生產活動對環境造成的影響,2015年首創了環境損益表(Environmental Profit & Loss)這個開源概念,它將環境影響換算為貨幣價值,從而得出環境損益,其評估範圍涵蓋了從原材料到生產製造的整個供應鏈;LVMH集團也逐步於院校開展可持續發展研究,並在節能減排方面簽訂相關承諾協議,H&M不僅大力推廣「舊衣回收」,且制訂2030年實現100%使用再生或其他可持續來源的材料的計劃。
Ellen MacArthur Foundation的Make Fashion Circular項目倡議負責人Francois Souchet用迴圈經濟(Circular Economy)理念分析可持續時裝面臨的資源環境與發展模式問題:「再迴圈經濟當中主要有三個原則。第一個是從一開始的設計環節就要避免污染和浪費;第二點就是增加產品的使用率,這也能帶來更高的利潤;第三條原則就是進行迴圈不斷的再生,並且將自然的資源能夠反覆的利用、迴圈利用。」
開雲集團首席可持續發展總監兼國際機構事務主管Marie-Claire Daveu告訴《彭博商業周刊/中文版》:「對我而言,可持續是奢侈品行業中最核心的一環,不僅要生產出質量非常高的產品,同時也要保護地球,奢侈品和可持續發展是環環相扣,不可分割的。」
內蒙古鄂爾多斯集團品牌事業部常務副總經理戴塔娜談起中國消費者在可持續消費的觀念和進展上指出,「回到中國文化本身,你會發現中國人其實從歷史上來說,節儉、物盡其用、物盡其美是一種美德,所以00後或者成熟的人,骨子裡還是有這種內容。」
Marie-Claire Daveu對此表示:「中國的90後及00後,他們正在尋求更多關於『透明度』的答案,包括產品的可追溯性,原料的來源,產品的質地,以及是否遵循了動物福利。」
奢侈品線下零售門店也見證時裝業可持續發展的巨大變化,2018年11月,出生於烏拉圭的紐約設計師Gabriela Hearst在紐約麥迪遜大街開設了一家同名「一切都可持續」奢侈品門店,將零售設計的可持續性提升到了一個新的階段。門店裝修及裝飾全部使用環保材料,所售賣服裝所使用的羊毛材料都來自家族牧場,產品包裝採用100%可分解塑料製成。Gabriela Hearst在彭博新聞社採訪中談到,「時裝品牌向員工和客戶展現出實行可持續發展的自豪感,人們同時也會尊崇這些品牌。」
此外,「可持續發展不意味著要停止消費,而是要以更好的方式去消費,從而延伸出以更好的方式去生產,它不是限制,而是巨大的機遇,」 Marie-Claire Daveu在接受採訪中表示。撰文/耿川迪
#時裝業 #可持續 #發展 #覺醒 #動物權益 #皮草 #H&M #Kering #Greenpeace #Gucci #Versace #BottegaVeneta #Coach #Stella McCartney #Michael Kors #LVMH
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