Retail Today | Global News: Muji Is Struggling from Overseas Markets 今日零售 | 全球視點: 無印良品 海外市場的巨大挑戰 (中文在下)
In April, Muji's parent company Ryohin Keikaku Co. reported its first decline in operating profit in eight years and a financial outlook below analysts’ expectations, as well as a rare drop in same-store sales in China.
Investors are worried: After the value of the company almost tripled from 2013 to 2018, Ryohin Keikaku shares have declined nearly 40% in the past year.
President Satoru Matsuzaki has embarked on new ventures like Muji-branded hotels and Muji-designed buses while pushing into new markets such as India and Switzerland. To drive growth, he’s now taking steps like shifting production to cheaper locations and designing products specifically for Chinese consumers.
However, Muji still requires a faster adjustment to its overseas sales strategies. Muji always expanded to other countries with the same items it sells in Japan, assuming that its product range needs little translation for overseas consumers. That works well enough for, say, pencil cases, but not necessarily other items: It took Muji a decade in China to introduce sheets that fit standard Chinese beds.
Meanwhile, Muji’s “no brand” branding and straightforward, unchanging designs have made it a prime target for low-cost Chinese copycats. Muji’s prices are considerably more expensive outside of Japan due to taxes and tariffs, and a cottage industry of Chinese competitors like Miniso, Nome and OCE has sprung up to offer the same aesthetic for a fraction of the cost.
To avoid the price competition, Muji plans to produce more of its items in the countries where they’re sold. Next year, the company will roll out over 200 made-in-India products for its local stores. It’s also shifting more production to Southeast Asia, where labor is cheap.
In China, it opened its first development office in September, with employees responsible for monitoring local lifestyle trends—a belated acknowledgment that Tokyo-based designers may not have the necessary insight into Chinese desires. Not everything will be internationalized, however. Muji will continue to make cosmetics, for example, in Japan, as the promise of high-quality raw materials is part of their allure.
Given how quickly its low-cost imitators have moved, Muji faces an uphill battle in China. And there and elsewhere, its ambition to become a global retail behemoth to match Uniqlo may require some of the strategic compromises made by other mass retailers—whittling its 7,000 products down to those of greatest sales potential, manufacturing items for speed rather than durability, and opening large locations in expensive shopping districts.
今年四月,無印良品的母公司 Ryohin Keikaku Co. 報告中顯示,8年來他們的營業利潤首次下滑、財務前景低於分析師的預期,以及中國同店銷售額出現罕見的衰退。
投資者擔心,在2013年至2018年間,公司價值幾乎翻了三倍之後,Ryohin Keikaku 股價卻在過去一年中,下跌了將近40%。
品牌董事長 Satoru Matsuzaki 已開展新的企業體,包括開設無印良品酒店、無印良品設計的巴士,同一時間也進軍印度和瑞士等新市場。為了推動增長,他正在採取新措施,例如將生產工廠轉移到成本更便宜的地方,並專門為了中國消費者設計產品。
然而,無印良品仍需要更快速調整海外銷售策略。Muji 在拓展到其他國家時,多半採取與日本銷售產品相同的策略,也就是假定自家產品到其他市場販售,並不需要太多的修改或客製化。這對鉛筆盒這類商品是還不錯,但卻不一定可以複製到其他品項;舉例來說,無印良品實際上花了十年,才推出適合中國標準床尺寸的床單。
同時,無印良品的「無品牌」品牌、直觀和一成不變的設計,使它變成中國低成本仿冒商的主要目標。由於稅收和關稅的影響,無印良品在日本以外的價格相當昂貴,而Miniso,Nome和OCE等中國競爭對手,透過大量的家庭手工業製造,只需花費很少的成品,就能為消費者提供相同的生活美學。
為了避免落入價格競爭,無印良品計劃在其銷售的國家生產更多產品。明年,他們將為印度門市推出200多種當地製造的產品。還計畫將更多產品轉移到勞動力便宜的東南亞。
在中國,無印良品在去年九月成立第一個開發辦公室,員工負責觀察、搜集當地的生活方式趨勢 - 這也代表著無印良品終於承認,在東京的設計師不見得了解中國當地消費者真正的需求。然而,並非需要把一切都做到國際化。例如,無印良品選擇繼續在日本生產化妝品,因為日本所代表的高品質原材料是一項承諾,仍對消費者存在著重大的吸引力。
因為低成本仿造商的快速推進,無印良品在中國正面臨著一場苦戰。他們將自己定位與全球零售巨頭「優衣庫」齊頭並進的野心,可能需要參考其他大眾零售商一些在戰略上的妥協 - 像是把七千種產品減少,直到只保留最具銷售潛力的品項、快速製造商品而非強調產品的耐久度,以及在高消費購物區開設大型旗艦店等。
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out of office化妝品 在 Elva Ni倪晨曦 Facebook 的精選貼文
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out of office化妝品 在 李卓人 Lee Cheuk Yan Facebook 的最佳貼文
港人呼喚正義,全球杯葛L'Oréal
日前國際化妝品企業Lancôme邀請著名香港異見歌手何韻詩舉辦音樂會,但遭中共官媒《環球時報》點名批評後,竟立即發表聲明割蓆,其後更宣佈基於「安全因素」取消活動。Lancôme向獨裁政權卑躬屈膝,侮辱香港異見歌手,我們對此深感憤怒,並要求該企業鄭重道歉。在Lancôme母公司L'Oréal集團妥善處理事件之前,我們懇切呼籲所有支持民主自由的國際朋友,加入全球杯葛L'Oréal集團的行動。
事緣Lancôme原訂於2016年6月19日,與香港異見歌手何韻詩合辦小型音樂會。活動宣傳發出後,遭中共官媒《環球時報》於6月4日點名批評,指Lancôme聘用「支持港毒、力挺藏毒頭目」。Lancôme於6月5日下午隨即在社交網站發表聲明,指何韻詩並非其品牌代言人,晚上10時更宣佈取消有關活動。6月6日何韻詩發表聲明,對Lancôme突然單方面終止合作表示極度遺憾,並且要求Lancôme法國總公司公開交代原因。
何韻詩是首位公開同志身份的香港女歌手,近年積極參與同志運動,因而受到保守勢力打擊。2014年香港爆發全球矚目的雨傘運動,何韻詩更身體力行留守佔領區,參與公民抗命。其後,她與其他文化演藝界人士成立「文化界監察暴力行動組」,繼續關注民主運動以及針對示威者的暴力問題。由於何韻詩的政治立場,她在工作上遭到中共政權及親中共財團的全面封殺。
中共政權利用經濟力量封殺異見人士,這種壓迫存在已久。包括何韻詩在內少數敢於發表異見的香港藝人,一直受到不同程度的打壓。令人意外的是,一直聲稱關注社會責任及企業倫理,自許為女性充權的國際知名,竟然也甘心向獨裁政權下跪。據何韻詩的聲明指出,單方面取消合作是Lancôme總公司的決定。因此,L'Oréal集團必須為是次事件負上全責。
L'Oréal集團奉「真誠、尊重、勇敢、透明」為企業倫理的原則,強調美麗是「能夠令所有人表達個性,增添自信,向他人開放自己」,但今次事件的表現卻是背道而馳。我們深信,真正的美麗不可能容許自由和良知的缺席。今次Lancôme的行逕,不只是侮辱何韻詩,更是侮辱追求民主多年的香港人,侮辱尊重民主自由價值的世界公民。這是對言論自由的嚴重威脅,孤立的香港人呼喚正義支援。
我們嚴正要求L'Oréal集團,為是次事件公開解釋及鄭重道歉,並承諾日後不會受政治壓力而作出如此類似的自我審查。在L'Oréal集團妥善回應之前,我們懇切呼籲支持民主自由的國際朋友,即時罷買L'Oréal集團旗下所有產品。
發起團體:
社會民主連線
聯署團體:
人民力量
工黨
公民黨
香港眾志
文化界監察暴力行動組
新民主同盟
民主黨
民間人權陣線
社工復興運動
婦女參政網絡
八鄉朱凱迪
香港女社工協會
跨性別資源中心
香港民主民生協進會
大專同志行動
學人。性。聯盟
(歡迎各位市民及團體聯署,請直接聯絡本專頁)
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A call for justice and support from Hong Kong -- Boycott L'Oréal for Self-censorsip
Lancôme has cancelled its promotional concert with Canto-pop singer Denise Ho Wan-sze due to 'possible safety reasons' after receiving criticism from the Beijing newspaper Global Times on Ho's pro-democracy stance. Lancôme is kneeling down in the face of this autocratic hegemony and we urge for a formal apology from Lancôme. Before any proper arrangement from L'Oréal, the parent company of Lancôme, we call for a global boycott of L'Oréal among all international democratic supporters.
Lancôme planned to co-organize a mini concert with Denise Ho on 19th June,2016 but soon received criticism from Global Times on 4th June, accusing Ho as Hong Kong independence movement supporter. Lancôme issued a statement on 5th June to deny Ho as its brand representative and subsequently cancelled the concert later that day. Ho expressed her regret on the termination of cooperation through her statement issued on 6th June and urged Lancôme's France head office to give public explanation of this incident.
Denise Ho is the first Hong Kong pop singer to publicly reveal her homosexual identity and she actively participated in LGBT social movements in recent years. Ho also joined the Umbrella Movement in 2014 for civil disobedience actions. She then established Hong Kong Shield with other artists concerning democratic movements and violence repressions on protestors. Due to her political stance, Ho is blacklisted by China market.
It is not surprising that the Chinese government abuses its economic power to suppress democratic supporters. What shocks the society is that an international brand emphasizing social responsibility and women empowerment like Lancôme also kneels down to the bullying government. According to Ho's statement, the cancellation was the sole decision made by Lancôme head office. L'Oréal shall bear all responsibility of this incident.
L'Oréal upholds "integrity, respect, coursge and transparency" as its ethical principles, and emphasizes that beauty can "enabkes all individuals to express their personalities, gain self-confidence and open up to others". Denise Ho's incident ia undoubtedly a great contradiction to L'Oréal's missions. We believe that true beauty comes with liberty and conscience. Lancôme not only assaulted Denise Ho, but also assaulted Hong Kong citizens who fight for democracy for years, and all global citizens embracing democracy and liberty.
Responding to this serious threat to freedom of speech, we call for support from all international friends -- to boycott L'Oréal and all its supervising products now. We urge for explanation and apology regarding this incident from L'Oréal and its promise not to carry out political censorship in the future.
Initiating organization:
League of Social Democrats
Cosigned organization:
People Power
Labour Party
Civic Party
Demosistō
Hong Kong Shield
Neo Democrats
Democratic Party
Civil Human Rights Front
Reclaiming Social Work Movement
Network for Women in Politics
Pat Heung Chu Hoi-dick
Hong Kong Association of Women Social Workers
Transgender Resource Center
Hong Kong Association for Democracy and People's Livelihood
Action Q
Scholars Alliance for Sexual and Gender Diversity
(We welcome individuals and organizations to join this cause. Please contact this page directly to co-sign this partition)