[Paris pastry shop / 巴黎甜點店] Philippe Conticini 主廚的 Gâteaux d’émotions 新店開幕與簡短訪問 / Opening of Gâteaux d’émotions in Paris 16e & short interview with the chef Philippe Conticini (English below)
Philippe Conticini 主廚的麵包甜點店 Gâteaux d’émotions 在 16 區開幕，這是他巴黎三家、東京兩家店中第一家販賣麵包與維也納麵包類商品的店鋪、也是巴黎唯一一家在店內就有廚房能生產製作的店家（其他商店由中央廚房生產商品後供應）。去年已經在〈高貴的日常—麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵〉一文中，與大家分享過 #麵包在巴黎重新受到注目的趨勢，現在越來越多甜點主廚們也加入戰局，想必未來會相當精彩，一般的街坊麵包店可能也會開始感覺到一些壓力。
Philippe Conticini 主廚與過去曾自行開業、也曾在上海藍帶學院擔任講師的 Sébastien Crouzat 主廚合作，推出一系列的麵包，包括長棍麵包、鄉村麵包、黑麥麵包與各種維也納麵包等。這家位於 16 區的店面處於一條繁華的商店街上（42 Rue de l’Annonciation, 75016 Paris），平日人潮熙來攘往，未來也即將推出適合午餐時間的三明治等商品。
本次重點除了品嚐麵包之外，還有 Conticini 主廚歷經兩年時間研發出的蛋糕捲。雖然是受到日本蛋糕捲的啟發，但主廚特別強調這和日本蛋糕捲完全不同。他觀察到日本人喜歡的蛋糕質地非常柔軟濕潤、像海綿一般，但「這不是歐洲人的口味」，他的蛋糕捲用了比較少的蛋與蛋黃、多了一些水分，質地較日本蛋糕捲酥鬆、更易融於口（fondant）。
Philippe Conticini 主廚是巴黎甜點界非常重要的人物，輩份和 Pierre Hermé 主廚相當，是知名的「Pâtisserie des Rêves」（夢幻甜點店）創始人之一，我也曾經在〈法國甜點大師群像〉專欄中介紹過他。當天他人在現場，我抓緊機會請教了一些我一直很關注、目前飲食界也很感興趣的問題。雖然有些問題和開幕主題無關，但主廚仍然很親切地為我解說：
Q：您曾經出版過一本《無糖甜點》食譜書（原文書名為《Gâteaux et gourmandises sans sucre》），請問您 #怎麼看待現今甜點減糖的潮流呢？您是不是也認為目前消費者越來越追求「健康的甜點」？
A：我認為大家被誤導了。的確現代消費者越來越希望品嚐到更為健康的甜點、減糖也是趨勢，但是 #我不認為甜點應該要不甜或無糖。我們為什麼要吃甜點，就是因為甜味帶來的愉悅感，凡事都應該講求平衡。重點並不是「糖是不好的東西」，而在於「#我們該如何攝取糖」。
Q：您怎麼看待 #純素（#vegan）的甜點呢？
A：我曾經品嚐過 Michaël Bartocetti 主廚（現任 Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris）的純素甜點，真的非常了不起，好吃得不得了，不論技術、外型還是口味都無懈可擊。但每個人有自己風格，#製作純素甜點不是我個人想做的。
Q：對您來說，甜點最重要的是味道，那您是否不關心外型呢？
A：外型也是重要的，#美味跟美麗的外表都是對製作甜點來說重要的考量因素。但是我不會刻意雕琢外型，（指著桌上的蛋糕捲）你看這個蛋糕捲，完全沒有裝飾，但是味道完完全全是我想要的樣子，我花了兩年的時間研究。它很好吃，大家都會忍不住再來一塊（又拿了一塊，並示意我也再吃一塊）。
Q：您的甜點是不是也沒有使用任何色素呢？
A：對，我的作品幾乎都沒有使用任何色素，像這個蛋糕捲甚至完全是裸露的。我們要思考「#為什麼要使用色素」。
雖然主廚的回答很簡短，但卻非常切中核心，許多觀點都值得大家思考。接下來就請點開照片一ㄧ欣賞該店商品！
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The chef Philippe Conticini opened his 3rd “Gâteaux d’émotions" boutique in the 16th arrondissement in Paris. This is the first boutique among all his boutiques (in Paris & Tokyo) that offers a full bread & viennoiserie product line and the first one in Paris with a kitchen behind so that on-spot fabrication is available. I have talked about in my previous article “Bread is a Rising Star in Paris” that bread is now under the spotlight and the boom of new style bakeries. Many pastry chefs have apparently noticed the trend and are now trying to catch up, take Cédric Grolet for example. As the line separating a boulangerie and a pâtisserie gets blurred even with regard to high end brands, I’m very looking forward to future innovations and cross-disciplinary collaborations.
The chef Philippe Conticini has invited Sébastien Crouzat, former owner of his own bakery and chef boulanger at Le Cordon Bleu Shanghai, to create a complete range of bread for this Gâteaux d’émotions boutique (now Pain d’émotions as well), such as baguettes, country breads, rye bread, viennoiseries, etc. Situated on 42 rue de l’Annonciation, a busy street full of shops and restaurants, this bakery will soon offer sandwiches and other savoury goods for lunch time.
Besides the bread, the chef Conticini has also launched a Japan-inspired rolled cake. The chef has spent 2 years to create a recipe that is much more “fondant” (easy to melt in the mouth) than its Japanese cousin, which is extremely soft, moist and spongy. Less eggs, yolks and more liquid are used. The chef has emphasised that “it is exactly how I want it”.
Internationally renowned and respected just as Pierre Hermé, Philippe Conticini is a great French pastry chef that has co-founded Pâtisseries des Rêves (closed permanently). I’ve introduced him in my “French pastry chef portraits” column several years ago but had not had chance talking to him personally until that day. I asked several questions related to topics that I’m really interested in and the chef was very kind to share with me his ideas:
Q: You’ve published a book "Gâteaux et gourmandises sans sucre” ("Sugar-free Cakes and Delicacies”) before, I wonder how you think about the current trend of pastries with “less sugar”? Have you also found that consumers nowadays are looking for “healthier” pastries?
A: I think people are misled (with regard to the sugar-free concept). It’s true that consumers are looking for healthier pastries, and less sugar is the trend, but I don’t think we should promote sugar-free pastries. The reason why people are having pastries or desserts is because we’re looking for “pleasure”. Sugar is not a bad thing, what’s important is the way we consume it and how we have a balance on everything in life.
Q: What’s your opinions on vegan pastries?
A: I’ve tasted the vegan pastries made by the chef Michael Bartocetti (head pastry chef of Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris and I really loved them. They were fantastic in terms of skills, appearance and taste. But everyone’s got his way and style. Vegan pastries are not my thing.
Q: “Taste” is the most important thing for you when making pastries, what do you think about the visual appearance of pastries? Is it less important?
A: Visual appearance is important as well! Both good taste and beautiful look matter when it comes to make pastries, but I don’t focus on making things beautiful. You see this rolled cake? There’s no decoration at all, but the taste is just how I want it. I spent two years on achieving this status. It’s really delicious and no one can resist having another slice.
Q: Do you not use colorants on your pastries?
A: That’s right. I hardly use any colorants on my pastries. Take this cake for example, it’s plain and naked. We should reflect on the question “why we need to use colorants”.
These are short answers, they’re very much to the point. Hopefully they’re as inspiring for you! Don’t forget to click on the photos and have a closer look on what the chef has to offer!
🔖 You might also be interested:
My pastries tell who I am: Philippe Conticini: https://tinyurl.com/trh23u2
Bread is a rising star: https://tinyurl.com/t8bn8cj
🔖 延伸閱讀：
我的甜點說明我是誰 － Philippe Conticini：https://tinyurl.com/trh23u2
高貴的日常 － 麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵：https://tinyurl.com/t8bn8cj
#yingspastryguide #pastrychef #philippeconticini #gateauxdemotions
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